First appeared in Holistic Primary Care

A unique partnership between health clinics and small farms in Portland, Oregon, is proving that helping people make the connection between their food choices and their health can lead to meaningful changes.

In 2015, the Multnomah County Health Department and Zenger Farm began a project called CSA Partnerships for Health, to address the growing challenge of food insecurity.

In a unique “farm-to-clinic” partnership, Zenger Farm, a small organic farm near Portland, OR, brings fresh, healthy produce to low-income patients at a community clinic.(Image courtesy Bryan Allen, Zenger Farm)Clinic patients—many of whom have had very limited access to healthy food in the past–become part of the farms’ Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs and, each week, pick up their share of locally grown, organic food at the clinics.

In the course of just one year, this innovative program has grown to include four small farms that now partner with four health clinics in underserved Portland neighborhoods.

Project manager Bryan Allan, who works at Zenger Farm, observes, “Picking up food at the health clinic reinforces the idea that food is the basis of good health.”

At each health center, twenty-five families are able to participate in the program, which is funded by grants from Kaiser Permanente’s Healthy Eating Active Living Program (HEAL) and Oregon Department of Agriculture. Practitioners and community health workers at the participating clinics identify patients whose health conditions would benefit from dietary changes and then make referrals to the program.

Each family pays $5 per week and receives $20 worth of vegetables. Depending on the farm, the CSA season runs between 20-23 weeks.

Health by the Season

As is the case with most CSAs, the produce that is available each week changes along with the growing season.

For example, one week a participant’s CSA share could include zucchini, yellow squash, pattypan squash, broccoli, basil, cucumber, onion, eggplant, Red Russian kale, split peas and some red potatoes. The next week, some of those items could be out of season and different later-season vegetables take their place.

This variation is part of what makes the program tick: participants learn to cook in harmony with the seasons–a valuable skill, and one way to make healthy eating more affordable.

Many people overlook the reality that out of season produce has to be shipped long distances, often from South America. In addition to carrying a heavy carbon footprint, it is usually more expensive.

Locally-grown seasonal fruits and vegetables can be a much cheaper option, and that’s an important factor in low-income communities that typically face a dearth of full service grocery stores and farmers markets. These neighborhoods are usually crowded with fast food restaurants offering inexpensive but nutritionally empty food choices.

When healthy food can be found, it is often more expensive and of poorer quality than found in wealthier neighborhoods. The CSA option puts fresh, healthy produce within reach of people with the greatest need but the least access.

Just getting a variety of vegetables is a positive healthy step for some families. “Wealthier families aren’t afraid to buy veggies that kids may not eat, but poor families can’t afford to do this,” noted Zenger Farms’ Mr. Allen.

Cooking for Health

Providing vegetables to poor families will have limited impact if the people do not know how to cook them. The CSA partnership program not only exposes people to vegetables to which they may be unfamiliar but, importantly, it teaches how to use them.

On a weekly basis, each of the four farms distributes newsletters to the program participants that include recipes spotlighting that week’s featured vegetables. They also provide skill sheets that can be kept on their refrigerators for easy reference. These cover topics such as ‘how to store veggies’, ‘how to stir-fry’ and ‘seasonings and how to use them’.

The goal, according to Allan is to “teach people to cook with what they have on hand.” In addition, four times per season, the program offers a food demo or hands on cooking classes at facilities near the health clinics to facilitate the clients’ culinary education.

So, does the program work?

An evaluation in 2015 by Portland State University using pre- and post-surveys as well as focus groups provides some early evidence of success.

A “farm-to-clinic” share from Zenger Farm’s produce (Image courtesy Bryan Allen, Zenger Farm)

Many participants reported losing weight since beginning their participation in the CSA, and they applauded the social aspect of the program. One member noted that the CSA pick-up was the only reason she got out of bed that day.

Another participant reported that she walked two miles to pick up her produce–a real win/win; not only is she obtaining fresh fruits and vegetables, she’s also upping her physical activity as a result of the program.

Ninety percent of the program participants reported that they now liked vegetables that they did not like at the start of the program. Broadening one’s diet to include new types of vegetables is an important precursor to changing eating habits.

For their part, practitioners at the participating clinics are glad to have a new option to help patients deal with chronic diet-related diseases, and appreciate being able to refer patients to a food-based program instead of having to just write another prescription.

CSA Partnerships for Health would like to see this type of system adopted in other parts of the country, and offers a tool kit to help other groups establish similar programs. The kit includes skill sheets, lesson plans, worksheets, samples of member recruitment materials and a memo of understanding.

In return, the Partnership asks that new groups report back some basic statistics such as number of participants and pounds of food distributed. For further information, contact Bryan Allan atbryan@zengerfarm.org .

Tackling obesity and the chronic health conditions to which it leads requires a multi-faceted approach. Using the CSA model to change eating habits is a viable starting point. Helping people develop new tastes and improve their food choices may take time, but can lead to real changes in their health.

END

Julia Powers is a nutrition consultant and writer based in Hingham, MA. After earning her masters in nutrition at the University of Bridgeport, she opted to further her education at the Maryland University for Integrative Health, where she is enrolled in the nutrition internship program. She also completed a ten-month mentorship program in Functional Medicine & Clinical Nutrition, with Dr. Liz Lipski. In addition to her private consultancy, Julia Powers Nutrition, she is a frequent contributor to Edible South Shore, and South Coast magazines.

For those committed to eating locally grown, sustainably raised food, the South Shore and South Coast of Massachusetts are a slice of heaven. Organic farms dot the land and numerous farmers markets connect growers and customers in a fun, festive atmosphere. Hugging our coastline, the Atlantic Ocean teems with fish and, increasingly, sustainably raised animals graze in our fields. However, just twenty years ago, the picture looked very different. The local food scene often amounted to a card table at the side of the road with tomatoes, zucchini, and blueberries for sale. The remarkable progress that has been made is due, in part, to a few visionary pioneers who, through their example, showed us that change was possible. In 1994 Donna Blischke founded Web of Life Farm located in Carver, and for the past twenty years she has been at the forefront of the local food movement. Inspiring people with her commitment and sharing her knowledge, she has helped the local organic food culture blossom.

As Donna recalls, “I remember twenty years ago when I was starting out, having to explain to people what organic was!”

Travis, Donna, and Stephanie Blischke grow food and grow together at Web of Life Farm.

As is the case with many farmers, Donna’s love of growing food has roots in her mother’s garden. Her mom kept a small garden and was committed to growing with no chemical inputs. As an adult, having children was Donna’s impetus to start her own garden. She recalls, “I wanted to grow food for them that was clean,” and remembers how it struck her that if she sold some extra tomatoes, she could make some money, stay home with her children, and still grow good clean food for them. From there it mushroomed. My, how it has! Donna now actively farms three acres and raises a wide variety of animals. She has also passed her mom’s love of growing food onto the next generation; her daughter works with her at the farm and her son, along with several others, helps out occasionally.

Web of Life is a diverse farm, reflecting Donna’s innate curiosity and belief in the interconnectedness of all species. As she says with a laugh, “I see something, I think it is interesting, and I want to leap into it.” Whether it is an heirloom variety of beans or a breed of goats she just learned about, if something piques her curiosity, it often ends up at the farm. The result? Donna grows a broad array of vegetables and fruits at Web of Life Farm, many of which are not found on other local farms; she also keeps bees, goats, chickens, and turkeys. Barbara Anglin, a longtime local foods activist, notes, “Donna does things no one else does.” And each year, in a nod to her Irish heritage, Donna and her two children also plant potatoes. She relates, “We even have an Irish potato harvesting song and I force them to sing it … every year. Losing tomatoes to blight here on my farm made me think of the horror my family must have felt at seeing the only crop that would ensure their survival through the winter, fail.” Web of Life also boasts a small orchard with apple and cherry trees, as well as Concord grape vines. Donna grows both heirloom and non-heirloom varieties of crops and orchard trees because, as she explains, “I love food with a history.” Some of the varieties she grows, including the Esopus Spitzenburg, reportedly Thomas Jefferson’s favorite apple tree, are listed on the Ark of Taste, (a project of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity that seeks to help preserve foods in danger of extinction).

From the earliest days of the farm, Donna recognized the importance of growing food without pesticides or synthetic fertilizers; Web of Life became a Certified Organic farm in 1994. Today, with organic food readily available, it is easy to forget that just a few decades ago, this commitment was highly unusual. As Donna recalls, “I remember twenty years ago when I was starting out, having to explain to people what organic was!” This type of farming takes commitment, not just to the growing practices but to the paperwork that has to be submitted to the certifying agency. Each area of the farm, including the fields, greenhouses, orchard, mushroom tunnel, and each type of animal, has to be separately certified. Although it is a lot of work, Donna praises Baystate Organics, the certifying organization for Web of Life Farm, noting, “They are a very valuable tool for directing me to the resources I need as an organic farmer–such as which fertilizers or pest control methods are safe and approved.”

Donna and Steph reap and pitch fingerling potatoes.

As a young girl, Donna learned food preservation skills from her mother and she uses these skills to stretch the harvest, enabling her customers to enjoy local foods long past the end of the growing season. Extra tomatoes are made into sauce or salsa, fruit into preserves, and cabbage into sauerkraut. Donna observed, “If we don’t sell everything at the markets, I will find a way to can or jar it.” She even grows heirloom flint corn that is dried on the stalk and then ground into cornmeal. Donna explained, “a lot of times, cornmeal has been stripped of the good parts of the kernel. Ours is a whole grain product.” Nothing on the farm is wasted–after realizing she wanted to find a use for the hair from her goats, Donna bought herself an old spinning wheel and taught herself how to spin yarn. Several years ago, Amish craftsmen built a beautiful barn at Web of Life Farm that includes a demonstration kitchen and homey sitting area. Donna plans to use this space to offer classes, teaching food preservation skills to others. Donna’s preserved foods are welcome additions to her farm boxes and are also sold at the Plymouth farmers’ market.

Donna and Stephanie Blischke mix it up making their heirloom staples.

Pottery: Local Pottery Norwell MA

Barbara describes Donna’s work as an “agricultural ministry.” Although Donna is now focusing solely on farming, for years she helped provide access to local foods by running the Middleborough farmers’ market. Donna also shares her years of wisdom with a close-knit group of friends she calls a lovely group of likeminded farmers. . .it is a collaboration, really.

Reflecting on the dramatic changes in local food culture over the past couple of decades, Donna notes with satisfaction, “People are starting to really look at where their food comes from. It is wonderful to hear people asking questions and learning [that] if a product has an ingredient list two paragraphs long, it is not what they should be eating.” In Southeastern Massachusetts, Donna is one of the people we should thank for helping bring about these changes–as Barbara Anglin notes, “it is good to celebrate one of the veterans.”

Web Of Life Farm
71 Silva Street
Carver, MA 02330-1344
(508) 866-7712
www.WebOfLifeFarm.com

…no seafood is more emblematic of the bounty of our coastal waters than the lobster.

Farmers of all stripes—from fruit and vegetable growers to those who provide us with beef, pork, and chicken—make eating local a healthful and pleasurable experience. But aren’t we forgetting someone? Despite our proximity to the sea, many of us often miss one of the most obvious sources of local food—the ocean. And, when we consider the hard-working folks at the foundation of our local food economy, fishermen are too often left out of the mix.

For Massachusetts residents, no seafood is more emblematic of the bounty of our coastal waters than the lobster. According to Beth Casoni of the Massachusetts Lobstermen’s Association, there are approximately 800 active lobstermen in the state who each fish between 200–800 pots. Lobstering remains one of the few professions dominated by small, family-run businesses. And, in a way that harkens back to a different time, it is a craft that is often passed down through generations. Children—usually sons—learn to lobster from their dad, who, in turn, learned from his father. But in recent years, the industry has changed, forcing many families to adapt in order to remain in business.

The past decade has been tough for these fishermen: lobster prices have dropped significantly while costs have continued to rise. To understand the price pressure, you must first know a bit about the lobster. Each summer, lobsters molt, or shed their shell, in order to grow. These lobsters do not have the same market value as their hard-shelled brethren. During the past decade, Canadian processors have purchased increasing numbers of these inexpensive soft-shelled lobsters from Massachusetts lobstermen. After processing them and freezing the meat, the Canadian companies ship this frozen lobster meat around the world, effectively shrinking the market for the more lucrative hard-shell lobster. Craig Keefe, a Scituate lobsterman, explains, “This is where the commercial lobstermen take the hit. It keeps the prices they are getting for the lobster low, while our expenses are ever increasing.” Ironically, as Casoni noted, after processing, the package that contains the frozen meat from Massachusetts lobsters “is now stamped ‘Product of Canada.’ “

Keefe has been lobstering commercially for over twenty years but got his start much earlier. He began pulling traps at age five with his dad, who was a part-time lobsterman. The chance to work alongside his father, which he still does, was one of the factors that drew him into the profession. As his wife Danielle said, “It [lobstering] is in his blood.” After trying several other types of fishing, Craig returned to his roots, concentrating primarily on lobstering. He now owns two boats, but after he had been fishing successfully for many years, lower lobster prices and changing regulations prompted Craig and Danielle to expand their business in new directions. Last year, they opened a stand-alone seafood counter at Previte’s Market in Weymouth, and in early 2014 they launched a second location inside Crocetti’s Market in East Bridgewater. To date, their largest undertaking is the recent opening of their own retail location in Scituate, the Scituate Lobster Pound.

Of course, the primary attraction of this charming store is the lobster and other local fish, such as cod and flounder, caught by Craig and other local fishermen. But it also features prepared foods such as lobster rolls, lobster pizza, lobster mac and cheese, and seafood salads. In addition, the Keefes sell a wide array of local products from Hornstra milk to Nella Pasta. Danielle commented, “We try to offer many wonderful local foods in one place and it is what people seem to like.” Their commitment to local foods runs so deep that even the lobster rolls are served on rolls baked by Duxbury’s My Little Bakery. The smallest customers are mesmerized by the store’s circular saltwater aquarium featuring crabs, starfish, lobster, and other treasures of the deep.

Tim Field, of Revolution Lobster in Westport, is another lobsterman who followed in his family’s footsteps. His mom grew up in a fishing family and his dad, Albert, has been lobstering since the late 1960s. When Tim was young, he would lobster with his dad during the summers, and after high school graduation he began fishing full time. Although he first fished on draggers and scallopers, he eventually returned to lobstering and now, at age 29, he owns two boats, the Revolution and the Rock and Roll.

In 2007, the last two lobster dealers buying directly from the boats stopped coming to Westport, forcing Tim to make some changes. Since bringing his lobsters to New Bedford presented both logistical and cost issues, he decided to start selling directly to customers. After buying a refrigerated truck and obtaining the necessary permits, his family worked together to make the venture a success. Tim and his dad fished while his mom, Debbie, and girlfriend, Lauren Bernardo, made restaurant deliveries and handled retail sales from the truck, which they would park at farmers’ markets and local convenience stores. Business was doing so well that Tim opened a retail store, Revolution Lobster, in Westport in November 2013. Although it was a big move, as Tim said, “In business, you are either growing or you’re dying.”

Lobster Sauce for Pasta & Baked Stuffed Lobster. Photo by Michael Hart

The store offers lobster, dry scallops, quahogs, steamers, littlenecks, and other freshly caught seafood and shellfish, in addition to some local South Coast favorites, such as Scrumbs seafood topping mix, made in Mattapoisett, and Sampson Farm potatoes, which are grown right in Westport. These potatoes also make an appearance in Revolution Lobster’s popular clam boil. Lauren uses social media to bring customers into the store, often posting updates on which freshly caught fish are in stock or recipes featuring their delicious seafood.

Although he doesn’t have children, Tim said that if he did, he would be happy to have them join the business as long “as they wanted to and knew the business has its challenges.” The Keefes have three sons, ages three, five, and ten. When asked if he hoped they follow in his footsteps, Craig said, “sadly and honestly no. I show them how it works and how to fish but we want them to have another career. It is a tough way to go.” Massachusetts has a proud tradition of lobstering, but its lobstermen are facing tough times. For those of us living on the South Shore and South Coast, let’s remember lobster and seafood are the quintessential local food—healthy, delicious, and sold by small family businesses that need our support.

“We try to offer many wonderful local foods in one place and it is what people seem to like.”

Revolution Lobster Seafood Market
655 State Road Suite 108
Westport, MA 02790
(508) 675-0131
www.RevolutionLobster.com

Scituate Lobster Pound
259 Stockbridge Road
Scituate, MA 02066
(781) 545-0027
www.ScituateLobsterPound.com

Scituate Lobster seafood is also available at:
Previte’s Market in Weymouth
Crocetti’s Market in East Bridgewater.

Growing up in Ohio, Julia Powers thought lobster was reserved for special occasions. After living on the East Coast for many years, she now cooks with lobster much more regularly, using it in everything from risotto to lobster avocado club sandwiches.

At Glastonbury Abbey,Chef / Farmer John Gauley & Brother Dan are mindful of their commitment to help others and share their bounty with those in need.

For most of us, preparing dinner is part of our daily routine. However, in our scramble to get dinner on the table, it’s easy to forget that the choices we make about food reflect our values in a very tangible way. Glastonbury Abbey, located in Hingham, is home to a community of Benedictine monks who, along with their long-time chef, John Gauley, make choices about their food that express key values held by their community — simplicity and a commitment to social justice. Because of the many benefits of local foods, from superior taste to a smaller carbon footprint, much of the produce used at the Abbey is grown in its garden or purchased from local farms. John takes this commitment to local food even further: he raises goats and bees whose milk (well, really, cheese) and honey help feed the monks. And, mindful of their commitment to help others, the monks share their bounty with those in need.

Founded in 1954, Glastonbury Abbey is set on sixty acres of rolling wooded hills dotted with rustic stone and timber buildings. It is home to twelve monks who live in the Roman Catholic Benedictine tradition, devoting their lives to prayer and contemplation. Despite the sense of peace and tranquility that pervades the grounds, it is a lively place. Annually, 1000 people attend retreats at the Abbey and 3000 visitors participate in the Abbey’s spiritual enrichment programs on subjects ranging from calligraphy to Buddhism. People of all faiths also come to the Abbey to enjoy its beautiful grounds, walk the stone labyrinth, listen to an outdoor concert, or attend the popular lecture series, “Listening to Other Voices.”

For twenty-two years, John Gauley, who is a layperson, has been the chef at Glastonbury Abbey, feeding the monks as well as the many guests who join them for conferences and retreats. And, oh, how he feeds them! John bakes bread daily — oatmeal bread studded with cranberries and candied ginger and a flax loaf with an oregano and romano crust are among the favorites. His main dishes are equally impressive — cauliflower and butternut squash stuffed shells with a sage and blue cheese sauce and salmon glazed with maple syrup and tamari are two of the standouts. But John knows his audience. “When the kids are here on retreat, I’ll make pizza. They love it.”

Although John is not a religious person, he is deeply spiritual and feels like he has found his home at the Abbey. “They [the monks] are like my family,” he says. “I love them. Some people say they like their jobs, I love mine. . .the values, the community, the support.” And the feeling is mutual. When asked about John’s cooking, Brother Dave, one of the monks, said, “The food is always of superior quality, healthy and well-prepared.” John believes strongly in sustainable eating and he has spearheaded many of the efforts at the Abbey that support that belief.

“Listening to Other Voices.”

“Listening to Other Voices.”

Eighteen years ago, after learning about the critical role bees play in pollinating plants, John established his first beehive at the Abbey. After taking a beekeeping course through the Plymouth County Extension Service, he continued learning from noted bee expert Gunther Hauk. John is committed to raising bees organically — without the use of chemicals to treat mites and hive beetles, or antibiotics or sugar syrups to supplement the hive. Now, he has fourteen hives: one in Weymouth, four at Hingham’s Weir River Farm, and the remaining nine at the Abbey. John says the bees remind him of the Abbey: “The hives are a community, working together for the common good.” The honey produced by the hives is used in the Abbey’s kitchen, and if the hives have been productive, the extra honey is sold in the Abbey’s bookstore. In 2010, three hundred pounds of surplus honey was sold. However, in 2011, there was no extra honey to sell; production was down because last year’s above average rainfall washed away much of the nectar.

Up a short path from the hives is a rocky outcropping that is home to the Abbey’s eight Nubian goats. With the help of a few neighbors and some of the monks, John cares for the goats, which have lived at the Abbey for four years. “The goats add a lot to the Abbey,” according to John. “They have brought a lot of families in. The kids love to feed them.” Currently, there is one goat milking and John uses the milk to make cheese such as marinated feta. He is also experimenting with Gouda, blue cheese, and fresh chèvre.

The gardens are the cornerstone of the Abbey’s efforts towards sustainable eating. Uphill from the chapel, the monks’ garden provides many of the vegetables used in John’s cooking. There is also a fragrant herb garden right outside the chapel. The herbs are used both in cooking and to make soap that is sold in the bookstore. John’s latest project is the community garden. Set in a clearing at the top of a steep hill, the garden, ringed in fieldstones, is divided into twelve plots. At the center of the garden sits a stone bench that is a perfect spot for reflection. In summer, flowers will encircle the garden, both to enhance its beauty and to provide blossoms for the chapel. Neighboring parishes and families will be invited to adopt a plot in the garden, either for their own use or to grow fresh produce for members of their parish in need.

The community garden is just the latest example of Glastonbury Abbey’s commitment to social justice. For many years, the monks have hosted monthly Sunday Suppers, where they invite people in the surrounding communities who are struggling financially to join them for dinner. And, twice a month, the monks provide dinner for the residents at Father Bill’s shelter in Quincy.

The monks at Glastonbury Abbey choose to live simply, in solidarity with those in need, and the food they eat reflects this choice. With the help of their chef, John Gauley, they are able to eat in accordance with their values and enjoy delicious food at the same time. Now that is divine!

Glastonbury Abbey
16 Hull Street
Hingham, MA 02043
(781) 749-2155
www.glastonburyabbey.org

Julia Powers lives in Hingham, just down the road from Glastonbury Abbey. She is happy to have neighbors who share her commitment to local, sustainable food.

Photos by Michael Hart